Designer Jewelry: Arando

Italian Jewelry by Arando

Arando Necklace

Italian jewelry is known all over the world for its astounding ability to find the beautiful in the simple, the aesthetic in the functional. But in our modern times, very few Italian jewelry houses create pieces that are more art than craft. Master Antonio Rando, the founder of Arando, creates timeless jewelry and watches that revolve around universal themes, expressing them according to his own unique vision.

Arando: Handcrafted Jewelry and Watches

Master Antonio Rando at Work

All Arando creations are completely made by hand, be it jewelry or watches. They come in limited editions, every design model is created only 99 times, and no more, which guarantees that only connoisseurs get to buy them.

Each piece follows the highest quality and aesthetic standards. Wearing an Arando jewelry or watch, be it for men or women, is like wearing a sculpture, a piece of art. As Master Rando himself says: "A jewel like a sculpture, a sculpture like a jewel...my sculptures, your jewelry."

Arando: Themes, Art, Vision

Each year, Master Antonio Arando creates a collection based on a theme, be it togetherness, motherhood, solitude, motherhood, dance or invocation. Through his vision he designs works of art: bracelets, necklaces, earrings and watches that capture the mood that inspired him, and would impart some of its energy to the wearer, arousing emotions in him or her. Each piece of Arandovibrates with magical creation, with movement, energy, and magic.

Arando Jewelry: Lovers

Arando: The Creative Process

Arando Watches: Sculptures Keeping Time

Master Rando uses his drawing board to show his team of experiencedItalian artisans and craftsmen the concept of a collection, who then try to bring the pieces to life using the most revered of Italian goldsmith traditions.

A lot of research goes into the selection of raw materials, colour, shape, and texture before work on the pieces is begun, ensuring wearability, elegance, and uniqueness at the same time.

Arando Jewelry: The Creative Process

Gold is melted at very high temperatures, and materials added to it in order to change its hardness, colour, and look.

The resulting ingots are melted at very high temperatures and poured into precisely cast moulds.

Master Rando is aware of the quality of the work produced by each artisan at every stage, and a piece is rejected due to the tiniest of impurities and imperfections, at any stage whatsoever.

The old "cire perdue" technique is used in order to maintain tradition and quality. It infuses the work with an emotion that only the most discerning of artisans can give a piece of art while creating it by hand, from scratch.

The final piece is a work of loving art. Master Rando is based in Bergamo, but for those looking for wearable art, Arando is available through outlets in Bergamo, Milan, Venice and Tokyo.

Manufacturing is one of the mixed blessing of our time. While it has made conveniences easily available, it has also created a trend where most of the things we are surrounded with are identical to a million others.

But with Arando, each ring, each bangle, each bracelet, each watch is not only of the best quality possible, it also has a unique, soulful identity. Master Rando brings you art, emotion, sensation, all wrapped up in your watch or jewelry, an Italian family heirloom to be treasured down the years.

By Damyanti Ghosh

Designer Dynastic Jewelry: Torrini

Dynasty of Jewels
The Torrini Dynasty has its roots back in the fourteenth century when Jacopus Torrini of Scarperia, Italy began crafting fine suits of armor for the knights of the land. He registered his unique trademark in 1369 in Florence with the Guild of Iron Wrights, Armorers, and Nailmakers.For his mark, he cleverly combined a spur, symbolizing the armor, and a half clover, symbolizing the good luck he wished his business to have. Today, the half clover still characterizes the mark of the House of Torrini.

All of Italy was experiencing growth at this time of the golden age and Jacopus Torrini's business flourished. Torrini decided to expand his craft into fine jewelry making, as well as the creation of precious objects for his clientele. He specialized in using gold.

Today's Torrini Dynasty members and goldsmiths still utilize a finishing technique developed by Jacopus Torrino. His technique made use of relevant facts from the writings of Benevenuto Cellini, a goldsmith and sculptor of some renown, to create a dipping solution that brings out and enhances the natural colors of the metal. This process, referred to as "Oro Nativo" which translates to native gold, has become the quintessential facet of Torrini designs.

Torrini Designs, Italy

Linked with Italian jewelry for over six hundred years, the Torrini dynasty has created a long line of fine jewelry with distinctive textures and vibrant hues, much of which rests in museums for an adoring public to see.

Among the claims of much fine golden wonderment the Torrini dynasty has given to the European aristocracy, are brilliant tiaras specially designed for Czarinas.

Far from being the jewelry of trends, here today and gone tomorrow, the eclectic high fashion designs of Torrini jewelryhave survived for twenty-five generations.

In fact, Torrini designs are meant to transcend the ordinary and entice women from all avenues of life.

Furthermore, Torrini designs are well known for being unique, exceptional, hand crafted pieces of elegance and beauty. Among the highly guarded secrets, a hand polished finish with an undeniable sheen is part of the Torrini legacy.

Franco Torrini, the 24th generation heir, and Fabrizio Torrini, his son and the 25th generation heir, hold the reins of the family business and together they guide the Torrini House of Jewels into the unknown future. From the elegant gift box that each piece rests in to the painstaking techniques incorporated in the craftsmanship of each uniquely beautiful piece, Torrini jewelry offers a lifetime of pleasurable moments.

Torrini Museum, Florence, Italy

Rings, pendants, and chains that put one's mind into the past and bygone days of medieval times all the way up to and including modern and intricate pieces of finely crafted gold set with jewels of the finest quality, the Torrini collections have a esteemed place in the world of jewelry.

The fine surface techniques utilized by the Torrini craftsmen coupled with the Oro Nativo process has created countless beautiful pieces that appear to have been salvaged from centuries past.

While the majority of the Torrini collection focuses on women's jewelry, a variety of pieces have been designed for men, including money clips, watches, pens, cuff links, and button covers.

Additionally, a beautiful collection of silver giftware has been carefully designed and included with the rest of the brilliant Torrini collections.

The Torrini Signum, Florence, Italy

More recently,Torrini jewelry, known as a high-end designer brand of jewelry, has expanded to include affordable pieces that are less rustic and more fun to entice new buyers to their market. However, the Torrini line continues to skirt the contemporary and mundane and embraces the unusual and remarkable for its appeal to the public.

From clever pieces that lend themselves to evening or daytime use to pieces exclusively designed for upscale clientele, the jewelry created by Torrini craftsmen continues to find a secret niche in the world of fashionable, unusual, and fabulous. Located in Florence, Italy on Via Ponte a Iozzi, theHouse of Torrini beckons the lover of fine jewelry.

By Susan M. Keenan

Dazzling Damiani: The Italian Jewelry Company

From Actors to Royalty: Damiani

Brad Pitt chose Damiani to make his engagement ring for Jennifer Aniston and their wedding rings. Prince Emmanuel of Savoy also requested the company to make the wedding rings for his marriage to French actress Clotilde Courou. Movie stars, including Isabella Rossellini and Milla Jovovitch have proudly worn their jewelry. Beautiful Gwyneth Paltrow is proud to be their new face. The famous jewelry firm is the epitome of Italian style, elegance and innovation.

Damiani was founded by Enrico Grassi Damiani in Valenza. Strongly influenced by the beauty of Art Deco styles, Enrico designed and produced fine jewelry which quickly became renowned. He became the personal jeweler of influential families.

Enrico's son, Damiano Grassi Damiani began the company in 1924, and introduced new marketing and advertising strategies. Damiani, for example, was the first company to introduce Certificates of Authenticity for jewelry pieces showing the details included in the jewelry, for example, the number of carats.

Since then Damiani has become world famous and opened stores all over the world. The family business's Vice-President is Silvia, the grand-daughter of Domiani. The company is also run by her mother, Gabriella, and her siblings, Guido and Giorgio. Giorgio told jewelry magazine, Gold Inspirations, that: "Our heart is in Valenza, but our dream is to become an international luxury jewelry brand."

Bad publicity over the suit between Jennifer Anniston and Brad Pitt and the jewelry firm doesn't seem to have affected Damiani's reputation at all. Indeed, it probably enhanced it by making more people aware of the Italian company and its beautiful jewelry lines.

Brad Pitt and Jennifer Anniston accused the company of selling imitations of their custom-made wedding rings for $1000.00 each, when this was not part of their agreement with Damiani. The case was settled and under the terms of the settlement Pitt designed jewelry for Damiani while Aniston modeled in ads for the company. This was in exchange for the company's promise to stop selling copies of their wedding rings.

Prince Emanuel's wedding rings for his marriage in 2003 were a version of Brad Pitt's, made by hand in platinum and featured two diamonds on the sides. Silvia Damiani told Platinum Today that she was very pleased that Prince Emanuel and his bride chose an Italian jewelry maker, and that they would be the first to wear the newest version of the D-Side rings.

In September 2004 the jewelry firm celebrated its 80th anniversary at the prestigious New York restaurant, Le Cirque, attended by movie stars and the 'glitterati'. It is very proud to have achieved eighteen Diamonds International Awards, which are very highly regarded. The jewelry collection to celebrate their anniversary features jewelry inspired by each decade of the 20th century, starting with the stunning The Flapper Pendant, a beautiful necklace featuring diamonds and translucent aquamarine.

Some of their newer jewelry collections include Tahitian Pearl Jewelry Collection and their Sophia Loren collection.

The Tahitian collection featured beautiful black pearls, diamonds and gold. Damiani has won the Tahitian Pearl Trophy Italy.

The Sophia Loren collection was announced by the company in June this year as a tribute to the renowned Italian actress, who is a close friend of Silvia Damiani. Giorgio Damiani told Jewelry Today that: "We wanted to combine our style of classic diamond jewelry with the passion of rose gold, which we used to express her Italian spirit and warmth."

Damiani's collections are modern and innovative, yet many are inspired by the Art Deco style of the founder. Silvia Damiani, who designs for the company as well as being its Vice-President, has some favorites. One of these is the pavé style - this consists of many small diamonds closely together so that they look like a large stone. According to the article at CNN.com, 'Damiani Makes Diamonds Her Best Friend': 'Diamonds set in pavé also lend movement to her art deco-inspired pieces, so they look delicate and embracing.

The Damiani Groups owns the jewelry brands, Damiani, Salvini, which had Sharon Stone as 'its face, Alfieri & St. John and Bliss, which is designed to appeal to younger people. It recently bought the historic Italian jewelry firm, Calderoni, founded in 1840.

Their collections can be seen at their extremely classy website Damiani.com.

By Lisa-Anne Sanderson

A History of Bulgari Brilliant Jewelry

"Diamonds are a girl's best friend," Marilyn Monroe once quipped. The many movie stars who have been adorned with beautifulBulgari jewels would surely agree.

Italy's greatest jeweler, Bulgari had humble origins. Its founder, Soutirios, came from the tiny Greek village of Kallarrytes in the area of Epirus, near the Albanian border. The son of a family of silversmiths, Soutirios was more ambitious than his predecessors. When he began his business, this area was still ruled by the Ottomans and these were very troubled times. The area was marred by fighting and marauding bandits. One day Soutirios returned home from a fair and was robbed of everything, even his clothes.

When the Russians and the Turks went to war in the Balkans and the silver trade collapsed, Soutirios decided to leave. At first he set up shop in Corfu, but he was then advised to go to Italy where his business could be even more successful.

He opened a shop in Naples, but became disillusioned after it was robbed, and again left. This time Soutirios decided to head for the capital, Rome, where he sold his silver objects from a small stall in the Via Sistina. Soutirios also decided to chase the exclusive trade at San Moritz, the beautiful holiday resort in the mountains favored by the wealthy. He worked extremely long hours in the summers designing and making his silver jewelry.

Later he became successful enough to open a store in the Via Condotti in 1905 with his two sons, Constantino and Giorgio. This is still their flagship store. He called this, 'The Old Curiosity Shop' after Dickens's famous novel. Here the Bulgari's sold silver, antiques, and bric-a-brac.

Bvlgari Jewelry on Audrey Hepburn

Bulgari's jewelry soon became famous and movie stars, such as Mary Pickford, Princess Grace, and Audrey Hepburn, all wore their jewels. According to 'Bulgari' by Daniela Mascotti and Amanda Triossi, Richard Burton gave Elizabeth Taylor a Bulgari ring during the filming of "Cleopatra".

He is said to have remarked that: "I introduced her to beer and she introduced me to Bulgari." Taylor's then husband, Eddie Fisher, scared of losing his beautiful wife to Burton, rushed out and bought her a stunning emerald necklace, from the jewelers! Keira Knightley, the star of 'Pride and Prejudice' has worn a spectacular, vintage Bulgari necklace to the 78th Academy Awards.

Keira Knightley in Bvlgari

The thought that movie stars might be paid to wear jewelry by designers has often caused controversy. Ziyi Zhang was rumored to be paid a fortune to wear Bvlgari jewelry at the Oscars.

Zhang Ziyi in Bvlgari

The company told Diane Clehane of Look Online that: "Bvlgari has a long and established relationship with the movie industry. We have been approached throughout the years by many celebrities who have worn our jewelry and a watch for numerous events, movies, awards and private occasions and it is not the policy of the company to discuss these relationships any further."

When Bulgari sponsored Fay Weldon's novel, 'The Bvlgari Connection', it also caused controversy.

Although critics derided her, Weldon defended her use of the company's name. She told Calvin Reid at Publisher's Weekly that she did it "because it was fun... because I wanted to write a novel about the world of charity art auctions, where rich men and women sit on little gold chairs and exploit artists...and here was someone to pay for it."

Angelina Jolie in Italian Bvlgari Glasses

None of this affected Bulgari's reputation as one of the world's premier jewelers, however. The company is noted for many innovations in jewelry. Some of these include combining unusual materials, using materials not usually associated with jewelry, such as steel and white porcelain, creating stunning jewelry for everyday wear, and using Italian architectural themes.

Today the firm is run by Paolo and Nicola Bulgari, descendents of Sotirios, and their nephew, Francisco Trapani. In the 1970's the jewelers opened many international stores in such cities as New York, Paris and Geneva. The firm listed on the Italian Stock Exchange in 1995.

Bulgari Outlet, Milan, Italy

After a downturn in luxury goods caused by fear of terrorism, a tendency for people not to travel so much, and a strong euro, Ernesto Greco, the Chief Financial Officer of Bulgari, turned the company's fortunes around. According to Fine Lines by Ben McLannahan at CFOEurope.com (November, 2005): "Since taking the CFO reins at Bvlgari in 1989, Greco has steered its transformation from a private, 60 million euro family-dominated firm (one that took ten months to publish consolidated financial statements), to a sprawling, sophisticated 828 million euro global player, the third largest jeweler in the world, behind Cartier and New York-based Tiffany".

 

The company is still mostly famous for its stunning jewelry, sunglasses and watches.Bulgari sunglasses have been sported by Angelina Jolie, Tara Reid, and Anne Hathaway, to name but a few. Bulgari is also famous for its stunning collection of watches which include the lines: Bulgari-Bulgari, Assioma, Rettangolo, Ergon, and Diagono. These watches, along with new lines introduced every year account for more than 30% of the brand’s turnover. Bulgari also has many other lines, including scarves, bags, eyewear, and even luxury hotels where any piece of Bulgari jewelry can be ordered from room service!

In 2007, Bulgari brought in sales figures of 1.091 billion euros. In 2008, there are approximately 252 existing Bulgari boutiques which include 155 directly owned by Bulgari. Bulgari stores are located at some of the most prestigious fashion destinations in the world, and the name itself spells bold, timeless elegance.

By Lisa-Anne Sanderson

Edited and Updated by Damyanti, November, 2008